Issue link: http://southshoremagazine.uberflip.com/i/205938
One dish didn't pass inspection the night I was there and all that was said was this, "This is not good enough, do it again." At various moments, he leaves his kitchen to gleefully stroll through the dining room to greet his guests and make sure they are enjoying their experience. Pardon me for saying this, but you'd have to be comatose to not enjoy every second of your dining experience in this true stunner of a dining room that was beautifully reconstructed by owner Oredelhede. There are five fireplaces and an enormous butcher block table, all from around 1704. It is an awesome piece of culinary history found on the Red Lion's grounds and, if you're a history buff, it is worth a stroll around the dining room to marvel at all these historic elements. The ceiling is cozily low and graced with wooden beams, red chairs, reddish walls, a shiny brass bar, lanterns with candles, worn tavern tables (shabby chic) and barn wood floors throughout that make you feel as if you have been transported midpoint between some cozy bistro in Paris and, perhaps, a funky spot in Greenwich Village. Of course, the sound of Edith Pilaf singing in the background helps make this ethereal illusion even more fun and grand. "When you come out to eat, everything should be beautiful, or else why go out to eat? My food is delicious and beautiful. This dining room is beautiful. Life is beautiful! I like to create illusions of beauty! I like to entertain," Chef Kourda said proudly. Back in the kitchen, Chef Kourda scooped a bowl of lobster bisque and put it in front of me, "Here this is for you," he said. Upon my first spoonful, I knew there was nothing illusionary going on. His lobster bisque was so incredibly divine, creamy and silky that I wanted to jump into the pot of it and stay there forever with a straw or spoon and, to take my enthusiasm one step further, I was tempted to lick the bowl. I would have if I could have gotten away with it. Call me crude but I don't care! His delicious food is stunningly and artistically arranged on beautiful white platters and thick glass slabs of various shapes and sizes and other plates—the ones the lobsters are served on—look like drift wood. These plates are the canvases for Chef Kourda's artistic brilliance. Before I speak more of all the excellent food I shamelessly devoured, you need to know that Chef Kourda is not only an exceptional chef, he is an artist, a food magician. He can make a cheese platter look like a Kandinsky painting in a matter of minutes. He can make a beet salad not only the best thing you ever eaten, but something you want to hang on your living room wall or something you want to pay thousands of dollars for at an auction at Sotheby's. By the way, the beet salad and cheese platter are so inexpensive it is criminal, but order it anyway and let the Red Lion roar. "I have some nice rib-eye, let me make it for you." His Tunisian (French) accent still present and pleasing, so much so that his web site is entitled, The Chef With An Accent. Of course, I enthusiastically said yes to the steak frites (a popular menu item) and I watched him as closely as one should watch all magicians when trying to figure out their tricks. First Chef Kourda doused the rib-eye in a garlicky chimicurri sauce before it was placed on the grill (chimicurri is a classic Argentinian sauce made with finely chopped parsley, minced garlic, olive oil, oregano and white or red wine vinegar.) After cooking the steak to the utter perfection of medium rare, he placed more of the verdant chimicurri on top and squeezed a fresh lemon all over it. He then let the steak rest for a few moments so the juice inside would redistribute (making for a truly succulent steak) and then he cut into it. He placed a handful of micro cut pommes frites on the side, which are very thin and crispy French fries that are cut to order. He then slid the plate my way. I know a lot of food critics say things like the "best I ever had," and use words like "sublime, scrumptious and spectacular" and all those words certainly apply here. I wanted a better word that could best describe this exceptional steak. I didn't want to use some ordinary word because this is no ordinary steak, its profound goodness deserves the best word ever—and its own kingdom—so I made a word up, "Superfantawonderculartious." Maybe the folks over at Merriam-Webster won't be calling me anytime soon but I don't care. I still dream of that steak. As the night continued, Chef Koruda kept feeding me. It was like being twelve years old again and on an amusement ride that fills you with a bliss that starts in your belly and comes out in pure laughter and moans of absolute joy. The tempura shrimp was over-the-top delicious, the warm tomato bruschetta was by far the best I have ever had and the fried artichokes were sweet, delicate and briny. The assortment of creative flat breads where imposing and delicious and their ingredients ranged from tasty things like gorgonzola, shrimp, caramelized onions, duck confit, salmon, lamb shank, potato puree, tuna and capers. All flatbreads are topped with a tangy citrus dressing that offset the peppery arugula. There were mussels steamed with tomatoes, wine and bacon; scallops glazed in balsamic vinegar and beet salad with creamy goat cheese, not to mention a to-die-for grilled lamb shoulder. I had a Wagu burger on a brioche roll that melted in my mouth and almost made me pass out from pure pleasure. Chef Kourda also lists daily specials. Some are detailed but other times he'll let his customers know that he has something fresh, be it fish or meat-- it's up to you let him create something for you. It's a trust factor and there is no reason not to. You're in the hands of a master chef and Chef Kourda's mission is to please and please he will. Period. I wish I could say there was a crown jewel of the menu, but there is not. Everything on the menu is the crown jewel and, sorry to say, you have the awful task in deciding what to order, but rest assured you'll never be disappointed. The best part of this grand adventure was when Chef Kourda asked me to cook with him. This was a huge honor. He gave me a chef's jacket and there I was standing in front of a large unit imported from France that consisted of many ranges and ovens. Made out of black iron and brass, this square impressive and beautiful monstrosity sits in the center of his kitchen. I instantly felt like I was transported to some fine restaurant in Paris. On top of this striking unit were pots and pans that simmered with a variety of sauces, and, in one section, there was a grill where meats sizzled and smoked over dancing flames. Dancing? Did I say dancing? Yes I did. Are you ready for this? Every night the dining room turns into a disco, yes that's right! Chef Kourda turns on a set of laser lights in the dining room and the entire place sparkles with a multitude of bouncing colors. On Friday and Saturday night food is served until 12 and the place jams with fun. The word out on the South Shore is that these disco nights are quite the happening thing. "You need to transport people, entertain people, make them feel good, isn't that what life is all about? Feeling good?" Chef Kourda said while placing a beer in front of me. He then put on some disco music, lowered the bar lights and turned on the laser lights. His face immediately spotted with spinning colors, he flashed me his wide, playful and generous smile, "See, life is so good. Are you hungry? I can make you something more if you like? I am here to please." 71 S Main St., Cohasset 781.383.1704 www.redlioninn.com indian summer ~2013 75